Harbour Le Cou To La Plante Harbour

Good by Grand Bruit as we take a group shot before leaving and hello Harbour Le Cou once we arrived in Rose Blanche.

Once we arrived in Rose Blanche by ferry we decided to hitch a ride to Harbour Le Cou a few minutes up the road from which would provide a better launching spot in the morning to finally begin our paddle. Ralph was fortunate enough to coerce a trucker to let us tag along. Once at Harbour Le Cou we set up camp. I decided to lodge in this shed to avoid packing a wet tent in the morning. We also used the shed for our evening cook up and map review with plans for the morning.

Tony at our cook up.

Ralph loading the next day and finally we can begin paddling. Ralph is also seen here rounding Shark Cove Head our first head land of many on the journey. Fog was wafting all around but visibility allowed for land to stay in view which made the early part of navigation easy.

Well under way we begin to creep up on  Big Seal Island. Petites was pretty much a fogged out blur. There is an old stone lighthouse there built many years ago but was not visible to us in the fog nor very visible during the ferry ride past Petites the day before.

Just past Hatcher's Cove was a small inlet where this cabin spot provided a nice snack break. Then off again.

Tony darts by Whale Island on the way to Duck Island.

Ralph is passing by Crafty Head and then later resting in behind Duck Island. There were some interesting breaking waves on the exit from the Duck Island area. Kind of fun paddling through.

After paddling for about 25km we arrived at La Plante Harbour. Fro Duck Island was a steady paddle to here in some very loppy waters. My cockpit had taken on a fair bit of water due to a loose piece of equipment on deck that was dragging in the water. I was relieved to get to shore since a lot of drag had been created when it dislodged. Ralph offered to tie it back but the waters were quite choppy and the cove was just ahead. Ralph took on some water as well and we determined that our boats were heavy and allot of wash had spilled over us during the paddle. Boat was nicely rearranged for the departure the next day I'll tell ya!

Tony enjoying some down time.

Our first fire of the trip and with the intermittent sunshine we were able to dry some gear.

A quick shot of some sea shells and some entries in my journal then off to bed for me.

"Our True Journey Begins"

If you are going to begin a journey it is good to start it on a full stomach.

Breakfast at our B&B saw us saying good by to some acquaintances made while there. A lovely couple from Nova Scotia were in the area researching and writing about a planned fictional movie. It was very nice chatting in the mornings. We highly suggested that they add a few kayakers to their script especially ones with the name of Ralph, Tony and Stan.

A little morning sing-a-long and we were set. lol The only things we could really carry successfully I think was our gear.

Thing is we were going to a community that was being resettled and this would be one of the last runs of the ferry to Grand Bruit. It was sad in a way as we gathered our gear on the dock and watched the inhabitants of Grand Bruit unload theirs. The ferry was making more runs than normal trying to help the Grand Bruitans get their possessions to their new location which on this day was Burgeo.

Boats and all were unloaded off the ferry from Gran Bruit and this chap was paddling his craft over to another ferry at the dock that was heading for Ramea, an Island further off Burgeo (approx. 18km). You can see the straps attached to his boat so as to aid hoisting to the other ferry.

Our boats were loaded on full of gear for our trip and heavy as heck. We were off to Grand Bruit and we sailed down the coast for 2.5 to 3 hours. It was enjoyable watching the coastline from afar that we would soon be paddling past. We knew not what the conditions at this point would hold. This leg would actually on our paddle present us with some of the biggest water of the trip.

Grand Bruit was a beautiful village nestled in a small mountainous range they would call the Blue Hills because of the blue cast when you gazed upon them. You can see them in the header image. This is their United Church being left to decay with the community upon the steward's of the church request. Their small fire hall is right next door.

Their streets were huge blocks of concrete that went to most doorsteps. Their are no automobiles just ATV's and boats here.

The local watering spot is aptly named "Cramelot Inn". It's proprietor Joe is a lively character and inviting and full of stories. The Inn has seen visitors from all over the world and that testament is etched in the guestbook you are invited to sign once inside. Joe said he crammed 40 or so odd soles in here during a gathering which this spot was for dances, music and live entertainment that could break out we were told almost any night of the week.

Joe showing Ralph the guest book.

Grand Bruit meaning in french "great noise" is thought to get it's name from the waterfalls that slice right through the community. Settled in the early 1800's by English settlers from Jersey it has been a haven for fishermen and his families for many years. This is the oldest home in Grand bruit. Constructed in the 1800's and still standing.

The waterfalls of Grand Bruit.

They are beautiful though.

I've taken so many pictures that tell such a tale here that my blog cannot do it full justice. I hope our slide show presentation at our club's watering hole and meeting place The Guvnor in the winter will help accomplish that.

So as we plan to leave Grand Bruit tomorrow for Rose Blanche where our paddle will begin we are beside ourselves with apathy for the people who are leaving here and giving up their way of life which once existed in Grand Bruit. Many were born here, many were wed here and many died here. Molly a big old lab I befriended when I was here seems to tell the story in her own expression of grief.

Islands of Burgeo

On our Third day in Burgeo we decided to just have a short paddle, (about 16km) around the local Islands.

Of course getting underway was always exciting in Burgeo because of the scenery and the fun paddling amongst the smaller islands that lie close to the mainland. I actually had conversations with people on their back doorsteps. You could meander around the smaller boats at moor.

The days we paddled were calm close to the mainland side and you could see reflections of the shoreline all the way out to the harbour entrance.

The sky and water on most days looked the same. It was hard to tell if you were paddling on sky or water.

Heading west on this calm day with no wind would take us past Morgan's Island, Hunt's Island, Cutttail Island and many more. It was a leisurely jaunt and just another way to loosen up and prepare for our trip tomorrow.

No wave action and no swell to speak of. This was certainly not the case on our trip. We saw our fair share of good size waves and swell.

Island hopping.

Sandbanks Provincial park is located near what the locals call Upper Burgeo and has beautiful sandy beaches like this one we stopped at for lunch. We were to find a few of these beaches along our route and there are many.

Another day and we ended by exploring all the small coves on the way back to Burgeo. They intersect and meander around down town as much as the streets do. Tomorrow it is off to Grand Bruit. All that will be left in this day is anticipation and another beautiful sunset.

What A Day!

To Red Island

While in Burgeo on June 27th before our trip we decided much to the suggestion of our host Dorim to paddle to Red Island in a pretty much easterly direction. The winds were favorable about 15kn and some swell. We ended up putting in about 26km that day and we were enthralled by the scenery of that area. A few old communities used to inhabit the area and when you paddle in amongst the sheltered coves you can understand why. Having a nice sunny day doesn't hurt either.

Setting out Ralph and Tony etch the water trail to follow on our way to Red Island. Green Hill Island can be seen in the background.

Leaving the cove of the Bed and Breakfast.

Ralph organising gear while looking to some Burgeo islands in the west.

In the far distance is Salmon Net Head which was our essential destination to round and also is the first entrance to Doctor's Harbour and Red Island. We had to cross Bay de Loup round Bay de Loup point and Western Point part of the Northwest Arm.

Nearing the Northwest Arm.

Ralph in the mix of things.

Entering the Northeast Arm. Heading for a pee break and Red Island inside the Arm.

A bit of a break on the scenic Red Island. This whole area is captivating and I took far to many shots to post.

Satiated with food and eye candy we head back fot Burgeo basking in the sun still and the calmness of the Arm.

Heading up the Northwest side of the arm we make our way amongst the hills that drop into the sea with their carpets of green grass and contrasting solid stone.

It at times was loppy but more from the swell. The wind did pick up a bit on the way back but it was refreshing to be on the water readying for our trip.

Tony spotted this bit of a short cut we missed on the way up. There was a minuscule portage over this sand bank and we were on our way again looking for the Green Marker Buoy.

Finding our target, not that we needed this marker on this fine day, we swept by on our way to our takeout at Burgeo Haven.

Of course once on land it was grubbing up,this time we bought food at Food land and hunkered down in this nice dock and ate and reminisced in the setting sun.