"Burgeo By Kayak"

Guess what? This is our last day. We travel a good bunch of  km to get from Wreck Island To Burgeo. Mixed with big water, undulating swell and calm barasways.

It was an 8am departure from wreck Island. I slept fitfully through the night having gone to bed early. Even missed the camp fire. Had bit of a chill as the fog rolled in, the skies over cast with periods of rain and the wind picked up through the evening. At about 3am I was awakened by the sound of waves hitting the beach that seemed intensified. Got up warily in the dark and walked down to beach to find the water washing under the stern of my boat. Ralph and Tony had secured it last evening. Ralph's boat was also having its' stern washed so I moved both boats further up beach and went back to bed relieved. Tony's boat was fine. We were anxious to get on the go and hoping weather would hold. The fog was just a km or so out to sea.

Waters were not bad at start and certainly manageable as we pass Wreck Island Harbour.

Rounding the outer rim of Green Island we begin to appreciate the increase in swell from the open ocean of the Gulf.

As we near Kelpy Cove Point the swell is ever increasing with a bit more wind.

We are exposed here and not sheltered from the SWesterlies.  We decide to paddle a bit more towards the worsening swell at the headland into open ocean.

Adjusting for taking a shot was no easy task as allot of paddles rounding Kelpy Cove Point were braces and many times my deck was a wash. We soldiered on to the bit of respite provided by the inner side of the head and Cowlest Barasway.

Later we round Barasway Point, pass by Doctor's Island and near and pass Slaughter Rock. Not sure how this rock got its' name but one can only imagine a number of possibilities in this area.

With the tougher waters behind us on this day we are lulled by the Barasway waters and can see the towers and Island of Burgeo in the far distance we are back! But not before a stop on Cornelius Island for some much needed drink and refueling.

Cornelius has this cabin in a neat little protected cove with green fields and smaller islands around. A beautiful tranquil spot before the Burgeo finish.

As I gain steam for Burgeo I take one last look behind and see Ralph and Tony rounding Cronelius Island we are off again for the final leg. I contemplate our trip, our adventure and our success and it is then that I know we have etched memories forever.

Distant Burgeo.

Tout Finis!

"Grand Bruit To Wreck Island"

This is not the exact route we took as I am sure we meandered much more but it is merely to outline our progress. It was a long paddle with a few breaks, some fog of course and some delicious sun.

After our final fairwell to one of the last residents on Grand Bruit we pushed of the slip with his help. They always help here. Ralph and Tony ready for the next leg of our journey.

The exit to GB harbour then a sharp left and we are on our way. THe sun was out and intense already this morning and a beautiful start for a paddle.

Here we are facing Three Islands and Sandbank Point in the distance. The sun direcly in our eyes and my glasses lost in Harbour Le Cou. Thank god for hat brims. As it turns out we certainly had more sun than expected and I ended up with blisters on my nose that scabbed and one on the lip.  They are just now healing. Not enough sunscreen. Who'd a thunk?

Well under way we pass a few headlands. Cinq Cerf Bay with a few Isands was interesting and waters not that bad at all nor were the winds which were still hovering around 15nts and from the SW. Couteau Head , Deep Water Point and Shot Bag Island were all navigated by the guys.

Deep Water Point I believe.

Nearing Captain's Island we had been paddling for a stretch. It was getting time to get out and stretch the legs. I looked over to Ralph and creeping behind him was none other than our coastal friend .....the fog! I told Ralph to have a glance behind him and check out the banlk rolling in. I suggested we might make it to Captain's Island before it.

This is a sandy beach on Captain's Island we spotted from off shore and Ralph noticed movement coming down the hills behind the beach. It looked like  some four legged animal with a calf. They were just strolling down their woven path oblivious to Tony who was just about to hit the beach, and he had not seen them yet at this point I don't think. There was a small knoll before the sand they had to top and they strolled down right in front of Tony still in his boat maybe a meter or so from shore. The quiet approach of a kayak had not alerted them and Tony was able to get some decent shots. It turns out they were Caribou. Tony and I have come upon them before on a previous trip in Placentia Bay. They must have crossed the narrow strip between the Island and the mainland. It was obvious they were here before from the worn trails on the island.

Remember the fog bank behind Ralph and I. We beat it by about ten minutes. We were later to navigate through this for quite a ways. Keep the land to the left and ya can't go wrong. Some sunkers and shoals with breaking waves to get through though.

All I captured of the Caribou was their hurried departure and they were quick to make for the hills. Later the stag appeared for a security evaluation of us and then they were all lost in the  engulfing fog.

With Captain's Island , Bell Head, Muddyhole Point and lots of fog behind us we broke out into sunshine for the crossing of Connoire Bay. It seemed like forever and it was hot but we sauntered onward longing for Wreck Island and what may lie there for us.

Rounding Connoire Head and Wreck Island in sight we were propelled forward with a nice gentle swell from seaward. Tony and Ralph consulting maps we headed for our camp site for the night. What a site it would prove to be, eh Guys?

Boats ashore it was time to set up camp and enjoy the declining sun . We had time to again dry gear, go for walks, collect firewood and prepare for our supper.

Tony spotted this flat shelf above the beach that was cushioned by this dry moss. Camp took shape quickly and we were delighted not to have to trek sand in and out of our tents. Good call on that Tony!

All along the way my guts were killing me. I was kept awake at nights but always seemed to get enough sleep. When I got home I did a Helicobacter Pylori Breath test on myself at work where you swallow some radioactive  carbon 14 urea and give a breath sample (because it is one of many test we do) and two hours later I had a high positive result.  I figured. There is antibiotic treatment which I am now on and feeling much better. I only mention this because at this point the guys were getting ready to eat. I wasn't hungry/ Wasn't looking forward to gut aggravation so I decided to build a sun shelter. Funny really because at first I built it into the sun. Figured 36km wasn't enough work I guess. Dah! Anyways lots of time, lots of sun and it was great to enjoy it because we didn't even have sun before we left St. John's. Coincedentally more warm sun on our trip than we had all spring. The tarp more to protect my camera equipment than me.

Seeing how I took the extra effort to bring the equipment along including a heavy tripod which on occasion in Burgeo Tony helped me lug along and I thank him for that for sure, I figured I'd stick my kayak on a rock of seaweed and snap my beautiful Nordkapp, (we all had Nordkapps on this trip) pointing to the west like some ebony magnetic needle on a compass island...........maybe I really needed food! Welsh's supposed real fruit gummies were not doing the trick. Another wicked day and another chapter in our adventure. The final leg tomorrow.

Islands of Burgeo

On our Third day in Burgeo we decided to just have a short paddle, (about 16km) around the local Islands.

Of course getting underway was always exciting in Burgeo because of the scenery and the fun paddling amongst the smaller islands that lie close to the mainland. I actually had conversations with people on their back doorsteps. You could meander around the smaller boats at moor.

The days we paddled were calm close to the mainland side and you could see reflections of the shoreline all the way out to the harbour entrance.

The sky and water on most days looked the same. It was hard to tell if you were paddling on sky or water.

Heading west on this calm day with no wind would take us past Morgan's Island, Hunt's Island, Cutttail Island and many more. It was a leisurely jaunt and just another way to loosen up and prepare for our trip tomorrow.

No wave action and no swell to speak of. This was certainly not the case on our trip. We saw our fair share of good size waves and swell.

Island hopping.

Sandbanks Provincial park is located near what the locals call Upper Burgeo and has beautiful sandy beaches like this one we stopped at for lunch. We were to find a few of these beaches along our route and there are many.

Another day and we ended by exploring all the small coves on the way back to Burgeo. They intersect and meander around down town as much as the streets do. Tomorrow it is off to Grand Bruit. All that will be left in this day is anticipation and another beautiful sunset.

What A Day!

Burgeo: Backyards and Buttercups

Burgeo: it is on the backs of communities like this that in my opinion, Newfoundland is carried. It was the sweat and tears of these fragile communities that fed the coffers in St. John's for many years while inhabitants tried to etch out a subsistence lifestyle on the shores of a sometimes unforgiving and rugged coastline. Much can be said about these places and the people that live here. Situated on the southwest coast of Newfoundland about a 12 hour drive from St. John's, Burgeo is hidden from the mainstream of traffic flow. That may be good in some ways as you may be more apt to preserve your culture and way of life there but when times are a changing and as fishing stocks of all species dwindles being so isolated may not be that helpful at all. After all, when the fish is gone what will be left? Burgeo is serviced by a ferry that still chugs up and down the coastline and everywhere you go there are backyards and buttercups. I love buttercups they are so colorful and contrast so nicely with the green of the grass in these areas.

Backyards well they're another story.

The backyards of coastal Newfoundlanders tell many of  the stories of their way of

life. When you come out the back door in Burgeo you are greeted by spectacular island and land vistas that can take your breath away in the right light.

Sheds, walkways, and piles of wood are familiar sights. As are the mounds of rock that are as ornamental to me as the flowers and herbs in the garden.

Motorboats and slipways tell a tale of fish trade and transportation that existed for hundreds of years.

Staging and wharfs providing mooring spots and holding places for outer sheds, lobster pots and fishing gear. All easily accessible at the backdoor to the Atlantic Ocean.

This land of rock and some of the oldest in the world, so wind swept and coated in fog one would think it difficult to grow anything here but grow Newfoundland does and continuing to thrive does Burgeo.

Stretching far and near these fishing bays and communities are ripe with culture, charm and livelihoods that continue to thrive. Fishing is still a way of life here but others seek unique ways to tap into the economy of the area. So yup, backyards do mean something in Newfoundland, they are the gateways to livelihoods, the theatres of life and beauty and the bonds that hold each other close knowing there are few fences, and help when needed is just a few steps away.

This backyard was to prove to be the start of our adventure as Tony, Ralph and I came together for trip a kayaking trip along the south west coast of Newfoundland. We would visit with Burgeo then press on by ferry to Grand Bruit and Rose Blanche with our kayaks and gear then paddle back to this beautiful dock and Backyard at the Burgeo Haven Bed & Breakfast owned by Dorim and Martine. What a spot that caters to kayakers and the like. So nice to be able to load and unload easily, watch sunrises ans sunsets, wash off gear and seek shelter when you wanted to get out of the inclement weather but not really out. So as we became familiar with Burgeo we were anxious to continue our journey but like all journeys there has to be a beginning and so we have begun!

Part of any journey is having food. Nothing like a seafood platter and fish and chips to stalk up the stores of energy needed for the long haul. Joy's restaurant up the road can provide most anything by the looks of the menu. The battered cod was delicious. Tony and Ralph enjoying a bit of coastal cuisine.