“The Maligiaq Padilla Experience"

You know when you’ve had a life experience! It can be shared by more than one at the same time. It can be simple or complex, based on history or not, fulfilling or not I’m sure, but something that impacts you deep enough to cause you  to reflect later as to the events that previously transpired.

And of course, if you are going to have one of life’s moving experiences, you have to get your kayak to the water!

This days water would be Sandy Pond. Aptly named but not traditional in any sense as far as Greenland Paddling is concerned but adequate enough to ensure that nothing gets lost in the instruction process due to unforeseen elements, especially weather elements. Our warm-up treadmill so to speak.

So I thought….. when you settle down for long paddling sessions like out on a hunt for seals or whale, it might be best to limber up first because you never know when that next out of boat experience may come.

Our instructor today would be Maligiaq. I’m not going to elaborate on his Greenland credentials or his paddling skills, we all know about those. I’d like to focus just a little bit on how much fun he made paddling with a greenland paddle as none of us had skin on frames so we could not experience that part but certainly the on water part and where and how those sticks ended up in our hands in the first place.

It became evident to me right away the humility of this small man whom I’ve read and heard so much about. Though he may be small in stature he is big on strength and skill. His effortlessness in the boat was inspiring. I liked the history he related to us about the people of Greenland and the skills and stories he learned from his grandfather. It was nice to see such pride and culture mingled in such a wonderful application of transport on water.

I hung on his every word as years of culture poured forth as he explained to us the Greenland paddling technique that he had learned. As well as  explaining to us the importance of the hunt and paddling in groups and the responsibilities thereof. We set out to experience that feeling each eventually taking a leadership role while paddling single file and being reminded to watch-out  for our fellow hunters behind us , making sure we were all close together. Experiencing what it may be like in the cold waters off Greenland during a hunt with bergy bits and ice flows all around. Imagining the lifting swell of tides and wind waves as we stealthily sought out our prey. I imagined for a moment what excitement and thrill of adventure Maligiaq must have felt as his grandfather must have related to him on that day.

I really felt that the Greenlanders also had true fun in their boats. It is evident when you see photos of 5 and 8 years olds paddling in the coves of Greenland. It was a cool morning and we needed warming so Maligiaq organized a few races that got the competitive juices flowing, all in a gentle fun sort of way.

His infectious smile made you feel comfortable as he observed some of your strokes critiquing only when he felt it was needed. What i did learn most was that there is really no ‘right’ way to Greenland paddle. It seems to be what works best for you. I can handle that. He explained his style and stipulated how it was different from others. It was amazing how effortlessly he moved through the water even when racing when I was churning up a fair wake.

One of the contest we had held was tying our stern toggles together and paddling like heck in opposite directions to the cheering of the others. A kayak tug-of-war. It was a good laugh but a good workout as well. Many got sweaty inside our suits and chilled as a result later in the day but this certainly didn’t thwart any of the fun and learning that was to follow. Dean is digging in here and though the fun factor was high I could also see how this could lead to skill development of maintaining balance while struggling ith towing a catch such as huge seal, whale parts etc.

 

The pace was fluid and relaxed and everyone got the time they needed to tune in on the skills or parts thereof that they wanted work with.

Some KNL members listening to the master.

Gerard new to the Greenland stick, gets a private session. He enjoyed the course so much he went to the next days session as well. I believe Gerard and Maligiaq became quite good pals over the course of the weekend instruction and festivities. It was nice to get to know Mailigiaq on a personal level as well.

Following the hunters I had to stray behind occasionally to take some shots but was soon prompted to not get too far behind less I should jeopardize the hunting party. ; )

“Atlantic Kayak Symposium 2011"

Last weekend we had a kayak symposium here in Glovertown Newfoundland. About 160 participants including instructors. Not a bad turnout at all. One of the biggest held by Paddle Canada. 

We kind of took over the town in a manner similar to a tidal wave I would suspect but with much less destruction. We occupied most cabins in the area. Being located in the Terra Nova National Park made for some excellent outdoor environments.

As people began to arrive it became apparent that there was going to be lots of boats. Lots of different manufacturers hence some familiar and not so familiar designs like the Vaag, not pictured here!

Well i brought my trusty Nordkapp and was just itchin’ to get on the water for some instruction.

Having arrived on Friday evening I would have to wait to attend my kayaking sessions with Maligiaq Padilla the following day. We were all so looking forward to meeting him and of course learning whatever there would be to take away.

Just a few boats in the parking lot and we would soon learn that this was only a fraction of the many that arrived on Friday night. Over the next few days I hope to post some of the photos I was able to take when I was paddling and supposedly listening to instruction.

“Nautical Navigation"

A few weeks ago our club, KNL, held a navigation brush-up course I guess you would say. So like all courses there are essential components.

a) You need a nautical chart!

b) You don’t need an Iphone with a digital compass. : )

c) You most definitely need a Guinness 

Throw in some people eager to find out where they may be going on the water and how is the best way to get there. Knowledgeably of course. Guinness burp!

OH YES! You need and educator. Richard Alexander shown here sharing his knowledge of on water navigation. A nice instruction session and always something to take away.

There was some debate about using topo maps or nautical charts for navigation on the water. It only seems logical to me to use nautical charts but there is pros and perhaps some cons for one more than the other but I guess in the end whatever works for you under the circumstances may be your best option. For me it is nautical charts on the water and topos on the land. 

“Iceberg Alley"

It’s not just a saying. It is sometimes a reality. When it happens it is beauty, elegance on water, and purely nature’s canvas inaction. Such are the romance of Icebergs and when the Labrador current starts sending them our way we ready ourselves for the majesty of their beauty. These are a few that are being tracked by satellite in the waters off Newfoundland and Labrador. The alley appears to be cluttered at this point and less than a hundred km from the tip of the Avalon Peninsula after which when it reaches this point we will begin to document sightings in our area I am sure.

I didn’t think we would get them this year but I was wrong and happily so. With our Symposium at May’s long weekend  it could be just the opportunity for some exploration of them.

They do captivate and I find the fascination similar to that of staring in a campfire on a summer evening allowing your mind to drift and be mesmerized by the changing shapes of the flames from the hot embers burning and feeding the fiery dance. 

In april there was a huge chunk that calved off the Petermann Glacier in northern Greenland. It is said to be 4 times the size of New York’s Manhatten Island. A university of Delaware researcher says the sheet covers a hundred square miles. Now that is one hell of an ice cube! I don’t think these recent icebergs are part of that sheet as the floating monolithic island is still much further north. Not since 1962 has such a huge sheet broken off say canadian scientists and cracks are starting to form in the floating tongue of the huge sheet. I dare say that we may be treated to some huge displays of ice in the coming years if recent developments are any indication.

Tony and I in the past have spent a few hours of fun observing these up close. We all know or should know the risks involved. In recent years some adrenaline junkies have been boated out to actually climb them. We probably won’t be attempting that this year lol

Here is the link to http://www.icebergfinder.com/iceberg-map.aspx

“Like A Rock"

It sure is.

Sometimes they look like whales, sometimes they look menacing, and other times they are just stinky and slimy. We have lots of it here in Newfoundland and it is talked about often, ‘The Rock, for example which generally refers to the island itself is a disconnect from old continents like Africa. We have some of the oldest rock on earth in Newfoundland. Heaved up like an earthly gag reflex producing forth molten sputum right from the stomach of the planet’s core. You’d think after all these millions of years of exposure in some of the more hostile waters in the area there would be more sand on the Avalon….nope! We’re making it now. Come back in another couple million or so but enjoy the pleasures that rocks and their peculiar shapes and sizes has to offer and you will be treated to some other than benign wonders during your time on our waterways.

“Homeward Bound"

With the rewards of a stellar time spent on the water with good friends it is time to head home to our take out in Pouch Cove. Just around the bend really from Biscayne Cove.

Gerard passing a rock island in Biscayne Cove.

Gerard in a droplet warp.

A small inlet that allowed for a small break and mini exploration.

This is actually in the backyard of someone up on the cliff there.

There are a couple of slipways in Pouch Cove and they both are fairly steep. Lucky to have a slipway at all really. When the waters are rough and the winds from the east, gaining access to them can be tricky because of the crashing waves. Today was quite uneventful ands though we did not choose this slipway it is a very scenic one on nice days. I was here last weekend taking pictures on shore.

Our proper slipway in site it is time to prepare for docking as we line up to wait in queue. 

As with most launches and landings there is always help available if needed. This was a real slippery slipway. Hence the name I guess. lol

Having unloaded our boats and returned in body and not yet spirit, we have boats loaded and memories etched for recall for the satiated drive home regardless of the still clinging fog.

“Rounding Cape St. Francis"

Rounding capes seem to be significant. They are gnarly most times or at least their waters are. So I guess this makes for some interesting hydro dynamics. The environment always seems a bit different at capes than other parts of the coast.  Perhaps it's their gradual extension out into the oceans they sprawl in that cause huge flowing volumes of water to reactive ferociously as the weather changes and the sea states impart their energy.

Sean rounding Cape St. Francis in the fog. Fog certainly sets a mood for rounding a cape .

Dennis and Dean having rounded are further lulled into a tranquil paddle by the thickness and dampness of the fog banks embracing the coastline during the whole of our paddle.  

Clyde and Tony making haste as the glide through the waters.

Entering Biscayne Cove.

Just when we needed a bit of a reprieve the fog broke just enough to allow us to see what was once a slipway. This area is now retreat for summer cabin goers and the damage from many a storm over the last few years has taken a toll that is likely never to be repaired. Once a thriving fishing village like so many along this coast, now a remnant and reminder of the fragility as well as the ferocity of our waters and  vulnerability of the creatures living there.

Well, rounding a cape sure makes one hungry. The old wench house has seen better days no doubt. When I hiked out to this point last year all these things, the slip way, the wench house, the wharf were all well and intact. We’ve had some weather since then. Just enough shelter to prevent the sandwiches from getting soggy. lol What a paddle thus far!!

"Enhancing The Paddle"

You just know that if there is a dark hole in the side of a rock cliff, someone of the group, is going there. To me paddles should be like that. Not even should,  that is just the way it is when I get in the boat. As neat as it is prying through that dark opening yourself and not knowing for sure what may lay hidden in its recesses is watching someone else ease their way through being guided by their sense of curiosity, adventure and loathing for discovery.

Sean getting ready to enter the blackness. 

The other fun part of a unique discovery is sharing it with other members of the group. Did someone say it was raining?

Waterfalls!! Waterfalls are one of those naturally enticing phenomena  that will usually attract everyone. I love them. We all love them. It must be the roar of their cascading tortuous paths down the face of an edifice or perhaps the contrast of their whiteness against a darker background or maybe even their smell and wetness. Could be that feeling of cleansing you get when you glide under them, even if it is minus 2, and allow their force to overtake your senses and wash away the salty brash of your paddle strokes. Whatever it is to each of us, they seem to soothe in some fine way and break the monotony of a long distance paddle.

Where fresh water enters the ocean you feel yes there is water simply everywhere, beneath you, beside you and falling from the ski above.

A kayak wash. Gotta like it.

You get the odd sun break and enjoy the tranquility and colors that surround you as they burst through the leaden fog and release the stimuli make paddling close to shores edge so lulling and enjoyable at times.

When you release into the more open waters and enjoy your skills around shoaling or rock outcrops you begin to entertain your senses on your own level and enjoy the watery field as your craft is wielded to the tune of tides, waves, wind and current that come together and coalesce the enhancement of every stroke on your paddle today. Clyde enjoying the waters at Cape St. Francis.

Bauline to Pouch Cove Newfoundland

Fog and Such…….

On one of the northern sections of the Avalon Peninsula there is a range of rock hills with steep cliffs that plunge deep into the waters of Conception Bay. It amazes me the numbers of trees that mange to thrive right down to the waters edge. 

When paddling in weather other than say fog, it can get monotonous because there is little change in the scenery with scattered wildlife mostly Bald Eagles.

When however you do get to paddle with fog and rain the scenery changes dramatically, almost at every stroke.

As the fog decides where it shall roll it covers and uncovers like ebbing and flooding tides leaving behind or in its midst the changes of the surrounding environment that are nerve really altered just exposed to varying degrees depending on natures brush of fog strokes.

The rolling hills can dwarf a kayaker and the fog ever changing the landscape can make the paddle quite mystical and magical and every new headland approach, a waiting discovery to be had. It is hard during times like this, not to think on what ocean explorers must have felt when they once sailed through the fog, a fresh opening, only to discover some new piece of geography or hidden cover or even treacherous coastline.

Sometimes you may even get a momentary hint of blue sky or total breaking of the fog’s thickness. It sometimes during these breaks that Bald Eagles are seen soaring from treetop to treetop in the distance watching our seemingly stealthy approach but knowing full well that they saw us long before we would ever catch the first glimpse of  them.

But on really foggy days you know that total open exposure is a transient relief and the fog rolls back in to mask your way and to muffle and baffle the sounds of the sea but keep close to the surface the smells of the waters. For the denseness of the air is too thick to allow the water scents to dissipate too far from your senses and everyone comments on how well they love that smell …the smell, of the briny sea.

Sometimes just stopping to take in the surroundings is all one needs to be grounded or watered so to speak….and be whisked away in thought or imaginations of spent time and time yet to be delivered.

Outside Cripple Cove

I’m starting this trip post in the middle. WE did about a 20km paddle, depending on who’s GPS you reference, on Saturday from Bauline Newfoundland to Pouch Cove Newfoundland. It was a mix of one or two sun breaks, with mostly RDF, what we like to call here in Newfoundland rain, drizzle, fog.

These images were outside Cripple Cove just before rounding the cape at Cape St. Francis. There is obviously some shoaling here and this area is normally much more chaotic and turbulent as you would expect any shoal to be especially at a cape. Saturday had calm winds with little swell but still enough water activity to make this little spot an entertainment piece in itself. We pattered around here for about 30 mins or so and headed into Cripple Cove which is rarely accessible because it sits below the cliffs of the cape but was allowing entrance today.

Inside Cripple Cove looks quite innocuous so we glided around its perimeter savouring the rarity of these moments of invasion knowing very well that the rocks and shoals guarding the entrances and exits are volatile at most times and unforgiving sentinels.

Sean taking in the scenery at Cape St. Francis. I believe there is a light here but it was not on at this point although the fog was so thick it felt you were paddling in the dark at times. Right here the fog horn was quite intense and I felt rushed to move on to find relief from its decibels that were amplified more than muffled by the otherwise baffling fog.